Should you start applying eye cream out of the womb? What formulas are best for you as you progress through your 20s, 30s and 40s? I caught up with dermatologist Dr. Ken Beer to glean answers to my burning beauty questions, below. Get schooled!

Rouge18: At what age should we start applying eye cream?  

Dr. Ken Beer: Depending on your skin type (color of the skin and thickness), I think that by age 25 most women should be starting to use eye creams. At the very least, they should be using sun protection in a good moisturizer to protect the skin around the eyes from damage and wrinkles.  When starting, the choices available are wide: from vitamin C to retinol to products that are great moisturizers with no anti aging elements.

R18: Are there different ingredients we should look for in an eye cream in our 20s/30s/40s/50s+? 

KB: Definitely- in your 20s it is important to use products with high SPF so that at least 30 spf is used. In the 30s and 40s, retinol is a key ingredient because it will help to regulate pigment and smoothen the appearance of some of the fine lines and wrinkles.  40’s and 50’s require more intervention. I like to use retinol and vitamin C or retinol and a topical growth factor or retinol and a strong antioxidant.  I also recommend thicker skin products with ingredients that help the barrier function of the eye skin. Simply things like squalane are wonderful for this area and I recommend it (it is found in olive oil).  I find that my patients that start a good skin care regimen in their 20s tend to look a lot better than their peers.  Hyaluronic acid (when properly formulated e.g. filling spheres) can deliver deep hydration to the skin of the eye area.

R18: What’s the best way to apply it?

KB: Applying products around the eyes is important. Either use a clean dry fingertip or use a smooth cotton tipped applicator. You don’t want to touch the skin after handling things with fragrance or formalin and even things like nail polish can trigger a reaction so it is really important to be careful. This is the most sensitive part of the skin and it requires some special handling.  I have seen reactions to newspaper ink and to cleaning agents and they can be very difficult to get under control.

R18: Can you talk about whether it’s a good idea to apply retinol during the day?

I think it is a good idea to apply retinol during the day. I don’t think it is irritating and I think that more is better. Retinol is the cornerstone of a good skin care regimen and using it during the day should not be a problem I would also recommend applying it at night so that you get the benefits of dual use.

R18: Are there any considerations to take re: skin type when it comes to eye cream?  

KB: Yes, lighter skin tends to be thinner and more damaged than darker skin. Women of all skin colors tend to get pigment around their eyes in their 30/40 and 50’s and this can be made worse by pregnancy or oral contraceptives so for all skin types, using sun protection is critical. For thinner , light skin, I recommend a stronger barrier cream that can protect the skin. For thicker, darker skin a serum may deliver the active ingredients without adding ingredients that are not needed.

This post is sponsored by RoC. All opinions herein are mine.