Skinceuticals’ Advanced Corrective Peel is considered a deep, superficial chemical peel.
Last week I went to Manhattan Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery‘s office for my first ever chemical peel. Of course I expected a Samantha moment and told all my friends I’d be inside, peeling, for the next two days so no, I didn’t want to go to brunch. Plus, I hate brunch.
My peel was Thursday night, a calculated appointment day, because of the lifecycle of a peel: Your skin begins to peel the next day, for only a few days, so if you go on a Thursday, you have the weekend to “recover” (I use that term very loosely, because there is actually no needed down time).
I opted for the Skinceuticals Advanced Corrective peel that contains 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid, and 10% phenylethyl resorcinol. A new treatment, this combo of ingredients has never been used together in a chemical peel until now. Salicylic acid is what you see in most acne products because it unclogs pores and regulates oil production. Lactic acid exfoliates, hydrates, and has disinfectant properties. Phenylethyl Resorcinol is an antioxidant derived from Scotch pine bark that lightens hyperpigmentation.
—Julia Casella
Follow Julia on Instagram.
The ACP self-neutralizes so it’s not removed. As a master aesthetician for a plastic surgeon, I’ve performed this peel on a lot of patients and, based on skin type, reactions vary dramatically. Two layers is often not enough to cause significant redness in the treatment room (which is the endpoint we want), in which case I add a third and, less often, a fourth layer. The key is going to a practitioner who has been trained to look for the appropriate endpoints.
On the flip side, two layers on my face sent me into orbit (with redness and discomfort) I have thinner skin so the peel penetrated deeply/quickly (frosted in small spots) with a sunburn effect lasting all evening. Washing my face 5 hours later reactivated the peel which was uncomfortable for a few minutes. I looked sunburned until a day later when a lot of brown pigment surfaced that I didn’t know I had. The next day my skin was very tight (resembling beef jerky). Late that day peeling started and came off in strips. It. Wasn’t. Pretty…
I prepare clients for peeling to begin 2-3 days post procedure and it will range from dandruff-type sloughing to full on ‘swamp thing’ peel out (that was me…and Samantha!). Before peeling begins you’ll see pigment rise to the surface but it does peel off (don’t panic). My downtime was rough but only for about 5 days. Within a week the results were amazing enough that I’ve gone through it a second time…again, with awesome results (much less pigment/ more even skin tone/fewer fine lines). If you have only light sloughing the first time, I’d recommend an additional layer the next time…but going conservative on peel #1 is a good idea. I would also never perform this treatment on someone who had never experienced a lighter peel before so we may somewhat predict the response.
This is all great and spot-on information that I can share with clients who are considering this peel. Thank You!
Hi Julia. How was the peel removed? Neutralizer?